I arrived in Ulaanbaatar (or UB as most people call it) and shared a cab with an American couple from the bus. Turns out we were staying at the same hostel. UB is much easier to get along in because almost everyone speaks some English. This was very welcome as I was too exhausted to try and learn a new language.
This sinus infection is still hanging on and I'm becoming quite miserable and sick of being sick. I arrived in UB at a decent hour and had visions of making a quick grocery run and getting to bed by 9:00. Oh the best laid plans...
First I went the wrong way to find the grocery store and walked around for probably 30-40 min before giving up and going back to consult the guidebook. Then I tried to get some money (Mongolians use the 'tögrög') but the first ATM I found wouldn't give me any cash. This was a problem as all I had in local currency was about $1.85 that I picked up from a money changer on the bus after we crossed the border.
Oh, that's a funny side story. As soon as we crossed Russian-Mongolian border some money changers came on board looking to sell Mongolian currency. I had gotten rid of almost all of my rubles thinking I would just hit an ATM for Mongolian currency. But I figured it would be good to have at least some local currency so I offered my 170 rubles (about $5) to the changer but he didn't seem to notice me. He took 1000 rubles from the guy sitting next to me though and went to move on. I tugged his sleeve and offered my rubles again and he made a face and waved me off and continued on. Seems he didn't want my paltry sum of rubles. Lol The next changer came down the aisle and did the same thing to me. But, when they were finished with the rest of the bus they came back to me and bought my pittance. I think I got something like 5800 tögrög and the American woman who had already spent 3 weeks in Mongolia said it was a pretty good deal.
So, back in UB... On the way to finding the big shopping mall with the grocery store I saw a restaurant that advertised free wi-fi. I stepped inside and was very thankful to get a good strong signal. I checked my bank balance and saw I was down to $80 in the travel debit account I had set up, so I transferred some money from my regular checking. Thank god for the Internet! I went on to the mall/grocery store and asked for the ATM. It was on the 5th floor and of COURSE the escalators weren't working. I was so zapped with this sinus infection that by the time I got to the 5th floor I wanted to lay down and sleep. But, I had no choice but to soldier on. This ATM gave me money thank goodness and even gave my balance in tögrögs. As it's 1415 tögrögs to $1 my balance showed something close to two million. I'm keeping that one for the scrapbook! Lol
I got groceries, but of course with everything being so new and foreign I had to wander and look at everything, despite being so tired. I did need to find some sinus decongestant and that proved more difficult and time consuming. I asked a store employee, showing her the two tablets I had left and the name 'pseudoepedrine' written on the back, but she didn't seem to understand. I pointed to my nose and made sniffing sounds and she led me to an aisle and handed me pore cleansing nose strips. Not what I was after, but it was a reasonable interpretation I suppose. I shook my head no and made louder sniffing sounds. She handed me a pack of pocket tissue and I shook my head no and mimed taking a pill and made more sniffing sounds and put my hand to my head to indicate fever or illness. Her eyes widened in recognition and she pointed out of the store and down the stairs. So it looked like I needed to go to the pharmacy.
I paid for my groceries - $19 for 2 bags of about the same size that in Russia cost me $40! - and went to the pharmacy. The woman spoke no English so I was having a hard time. Then a nice man came up and started translating and I left with something I think is akin to TheraFlu. Not exactly what I was after, but better than nothing I concluded.
On the way back to the hostel I stopped at the free wi-fi again and wrote an email to the nomad tour guy asking if it was at all possible to delay the departure by 1 day so I could rest and try to kick this sinus thing. I gave him my Russian cell and asked him to text since I didn't have email at the hostel.
I went back hoping against all hope he would say no problem and I could sleep all day. I had to shower because if I did have to leave for the tour at 8am, I knew it would not be good to have wet hair when it was cold and windy outside. I showered, repacked everything and collapsed into bed at 11:30- well past my original plan of 9:00 - but slept like a rock until my alarm went off at 7:30. I didn't have a text from him so I got up and on my way.
Tuesday, September 15, 2009
Thursday, September 10, 2009
The 90s
Ever wish you could re-live the 90's? Do you miss seeing music videos from bands like Cheap Trick, Warrant and INXS? How about seeing Cher half naked riding a cannon? (Remember the video 'If I Could Turn Back Time'?) Well, all you have to do is visit Russia as these are the only songs played on trains and music videos played on buses. (Oh, they do like ABBA too.)
It seems that the iron curtain went back up in the 90s. In addition to the music, the tour guide I had at the 'Natural History Museum' talked all about the Seattle Supersonics from the 90s. He talked about Gary Payton and Sean Kemp. He also knew Karl Malone and Shaquille O'Neal. He asked me who the stars were now and I was sorry to have to break the news to him that the Sonics no longer exist - at least not in Seattle - and that I don't follow basketball so couldn't tell him any other of the star players.
It seems that the iron curtain went back up in the 90s. In addition to the music, the tour guide I had at the 'Natural History Museum' talked all about the Seattle Supersonics from the 90s. He talked about Gary Payton and Sean Kemp. He also knew Karl Malone and Shaquille O'Neal. He asked me who the stars were now and I was sorry to have to break the news to him that the Sonics no longer exist - at least not in Seattle - and that I don't follow basketball so couldn't tell him any other of the star players.
The Joys of Border Crossing
I decided to take the bus across the Russian-Mongolian border instead of the train because I had read it was faster. If that's true I feel *really* sorry for people on the trains.
To cross the border by bus first a Russian official comes on board and looks at your passport and visa. Then we had to get off with all our luggage, have it x-rayed, have a border official stamp our visa and collect our immigration card and then load everything back on the bus. We also had to walk through a metal detector but no one was watching it so no one seemed to care that it went off for almost everyone. That was to leave Russia.
To enter Mongolia you had to fill out a health declaration form with a '+' sign next to various symptoms if you had them: cough, fever, diarrhea, hepatitis, etc. There I was with a runny and simultaneously stuffy nose and cough from this sinus infection but do you think I marked '+' to any of them? Hell no! When I got up there the official called me forward and asked 'niet?' to each one. I said 'niet' thinking maybe I had been caught but she just wanted me to mark a '-' sign next to each one.
When I got back on the bus I asked another American woman and she said they hadn't made her make any minus marks. So, I concluded that I must look sicker than her, or there is just no rhyme or reason to the way things work here. Yeah, I'm going with the latter. Especially since there was no control check getting on or off the bus to do the health inspection, it seemed to be on the honor system.
So then were on to customs to enter Mongolia. We have to unload all our baggage again, stand in line for the immigration questions and put the bags through x-Ray again. When it was my turn the guy looked through my passport, asked me whereIi was going, what was my purpose, etc. Then he studied my picture intently, looking back and forth at it and me. Then he said 'smile'. I cannot overstate the irony of this stone faced Mongolian official in his starched uniform with no hint of kindness or humor on his face, telling me curtly to smile. Evidently he couldn't be sure i was who my passport claimed unless he could match the shape of my teeth... Or something.
There was a little cocker spaniel running around and at first I didn't think anything of it. But when we boarded the bus a Mongolian official came on board with it and it darted between people's feet sniffing everything. It seems a German Shepard would Be more likely, but this little guy could get in between people's feet and sniff everything.
So then it looks like we're ready to finally get out of there and be on our way! It had been about 2 hours and 15 min at this point and there was nothing for sale - no food, water, pop, nothing- and I'm feening for a diet coke and my nose is completely stuffed on one side and I can't sleep on the bus because the roads (if you can call them that) are SO bad. So I'm getting a little grumpy, but hope this is the end of the torture and we can be on our way to stop for lunch.
We sit there for a bit and I'm talking to the American woman. Then we sit, and sit, and sit. Half an hour goes by and we're wondering what the problem is. We look around and realize that one guy isn't on the bus - and he's the dude that was carrying a case that looked like it held a Samurai sword. Great! So we sit some more and finally about 45 min or an hour later he finally comes out and we're on our way... Or so I think. Turns out there's one more check but at least this time we get to stay on the bus. A Mongolian official comes around and wants to see everyone's immigration stamp or visa. Like we didn't just do this an hour ago!
The whole process took a little over three hours and now I *really* need a diet coke! Hopefully they'll be easier to find in Mongolia than Russia.
To cross the border by bus first a Russian official comes on board and looks at your passport and visa. Then we had to get off with all our luggage, have it x-rayed, have a border official stamp our visa and collect our immigration card and then load everything back on the bus. We also had to walk through a metal detector but no one was watching it so no one seemed to care that it went off for almost everyone. That was to leave Russia.
To enter Mongolia you had to fill out a health declaration form with a '+' sign next to various symptoms if you had them: cough, fever, diarrhea, hepatitis, etc. There I was with a runny and simultaneously stuffy nose and cough from this sinus infection but do you think I marked '+' to any of them? Hell no! When I got up there the official called me forward and asked 'niet?' to each one. I said 'niet' thinking maybe I had been caught but she just wanted me to mark a '-' sign next to each one.
When I got back on the bus I asked another American woman and she said they hadn't made her make any minus marks. So, I concluded that I must look sicker than her, or there is just no rhyme or reason to the way things work here. Yeah, I'm going with the latter. Especially since there was no control check getting on or off the bus to do the health inspection, it seemed to be on the honor system.
So then were on to customs to enter Mongolia. We have to unload all our baggage again, stand in line for the immigration questions and put the bags through x-Ray again. When it was my turn the guy looked through my passport, asked me whereIi was going, what was my purpose, etc. Then he studied my picture intently, looking back and forth at it and me. Then he said 'smile'. I cannot overstate the irony of this stone faced Mongolian official in his starched uniform with no hint of kindness or humor on his face, telling me curtly to smile. Evidently he couldn't be sure i was who my passport claimed unless he could match the shape of my teeth... Or something.
There was a little cocker spaniel running around and at first I didn't think anything of it. But when we boarded the bus a Mongolian official came on board with it and it darted between people's feet sniffing everything. It seems a German Shepard would Be more likely, but this little guy could get in between people's feet and sniff everything.
So then it looks like we're ready to finally get out of there and be on our way! It had been about 2 hours and 15 min at this point and there was nothing for sale - no food, water, pop, nothing- and I'm feening for a diet coke and my nose is completely stuffed on one side and I can't sleep on the bus because the roads (if you can call them that) are SO bad. So I'm getting a little grumpy, but hope this is the end of the torture and we can be on our way to stop for lunch.
We sit there for a bit and I'm talking to the American woman. Then we sit, and sit, and sit. Half an hour goes by and we're wondering what the problem is. We look around and realize that one guy isn't on the bus - and he's the dude that was carrying a case that looked like it held a Samurai sword. Great! So we sit some more and finally about 45 min or an hour later he finally comes out and we're on our way... Or so I think. Turns out there's one more check but at least this time we get to stay on the bus. A Mongolian official comes around and wants to see everyone's immigration stamp or visa. Like we didn't just do this an hour ago!
The whole process took a little over three hours and now I *really* need a diet coke! Hopefully they'll be easier to find in Mongolia than Russia.
Wednesday, September 9, 2009
Tired in Ulan-Ude
I just finished posting more about the 3 1/2 day train trip and still need to write about Irkutsk, Lake Baikal and Ulan-Ude, but I'm exhausted and need to sleep. I caught a bad sinus infection/bronchial cough and have been zapped for energy lately. I did start taking antibiotics 3 days ago and feel I am on the mend, but am still very tired. Since I have to get up at 6:00am, to catch the bus to Ulaanbaatar, and I need to shower before they turn the hot water off, so I will sign off for now.
More Stories From the Train
So, more about my 3 1/2 day train journey. My bunk-mate was a manager of a 'magazine', or grocery store. He didn't speak a word of English, but kept talking and talking and talking to me. Up to about the 3rd day I didn't say much in English because I knew he didn't understand. But by the 3rd day I was a little exasperated at never understanding what he was saying so I started talking in long sentences in English to him. I would say 'You have no idea what I'm saying do you? No, because you don't understand me and I don't understand you'. He would get quite and then we would both laugh.
It's absolutely amazing to me how it's possible to become friends with someone and communicate without more than a dozen or two words understood between you. He had a chess board and book and would point at it and say 'Bobby Fischer'. Earlier I had told him I lived in Seattle (my 'doma') and explained it by drawing the US, marking New York and then marking Seattle all the way on the other side. Then I marked Alaska and showed it was closer to Seattle. He said 'Dah! Alaska. Alaska is Russki!' I said 'Niet. Alaska Russki, skolko (or sold) America!' He would scrunch up his face like he was upset that Russia had sold Alaska.
Later, when I told him I would like to play a game of chess with him he said, 'Alaska'. And after a bit I understood he wanted us to bet Russia reclaiming Alaska if he won. He was quite funny. Thank goodness we tied the game or Alaskans would be in trouble. :)
There was an American guy that would come around and visit and he was so rude and obnoxious. I think it's because he was drunk 24/7 but he would come in and eat our food without asking and would try to take pictures of people even when they indicated they did not want to be photographed. Then the last straw for me was when he came in and asked to read my guidebook but was telling my bunk-mate and others that women were stupid and they could ignore us and slap us. I asked him shy he needed to use my book, if he was traveling for 2 years (as he had told me earlier) why didn't he have one? He told me books were for losers. So I looked at him and said then I guess you don't need to use mine, that would make you a loser. He said no, no please I need your help. I looked at him and told him I thought he was a rude asshole and I was embarrassed for America because of his actions. Then I told him to get the F out of my sleeping cabin.
When he finally left, I typed into my translator 'arrogant', 'conceited', and 'asshole' and showed my new friends. They all nodded and said 'da' 'da'. I tried to say I apologize for Americans that act like that and that I hope they do not think all Americans are that way. That same guy found me in the train station when we arrived and asked if I was 'still mad at him'. I told him yes, I still think you're a dick and an embarrassment to America. What a prick!
There was another man I made friends with. He was obviously retired and I asked what his job was. He typed into my iPhone 'colonel' and 'air force'. That seemed pretty cool to me. As we talked more and became more friendly, I got the feeling he kind of liked me. He always wanted me to eat with him and would always kiss my hand and head. But the dude was 72 so I wasn't too worried, just wanted to be polite. When I went back to my cabin my roomie (Anatoli) typed the word 'honey' into my iPhone and then said 'Viktor' (the colonel's name). He pointed and me and said 'Viktor' 'honey'. He was totally making fun of me for Viktor having a crush on me. It was quite hilarious.
Once, he went to throw an empty beer bottle out the window and I yelled "NIET!" He looked at me like I had two heads. I said 'neit' and pointed to the trash bag I had been collecting. He looked like he didn't understand. I told him it was 'garbage'. I explained how in America if you throw things out the window you get a fine - a ticket - to pay money. His eyes widened and he said 'dah??' This was totally foreign to him. So for the rest of the trip when he would pick up trash I would say 'garbage' and he would put it in the bag. If he didn't learn anything else from our time together, trust me, he learned the word 'garbage'. LOL
Then there was Bato. He said he was in the military - Army I think. I think he drank beer 20 hours a day - but he was only 26. (In Russia, you indicate drinks by flicking your neck. I will have to show you because it really can't be explained. lol) Bato was very nice and we taught each other our respective alphabets. My train arrived in Irkutsk at 3:30am and he was awake and dressed to help me carry my bags out, as was the colonel and Anatoli. So nice!!
The train attendants were also very nice. There was only one outlet that had the right currency to charge my iPhone and it was near the bathroom. I plugged it in and then the attendants came to me and indicated that I should not leave it because it might get stolen. (Very nice of them to be watching out for me.) So I sat on the trash bin lid, just outside the toilet for THREE HOURS while it charged. During this time an extremely intoxicated Russian woman decided to try and talk to me. Imagine - I don't understand Russian and she's so drunk she's slurring her Russian words. When I would say 'I don't understand' she would either talk louder or slower, or often both. Very annoying.
Oh, and then there was the Russian-American language exchange lessons. Anatoli, Bato, Viktor and I were all sitting around having some smoked fish and beer (very tasty together!) and started translating cuss words. I have this app that is not a dictionary, but rather a phrase translator. It has all kinds of very bad Russian words! So we both learned 'fuck/nah-whee', 'shit/dare-mo' and 'dickhead/zal-oopa'. Amazingly, zaloopa is way worse in Russian than nahwhee. I would say zaloopa and Viktor the Colonel would shake his finger at me and mime spanking me. Then, I got the best video of Anatoli and Viktor saying 'fucks, shits, fuckk, fucks, fuckk, deek-had'. I was literally crying I laughed so hard. I tried to upload it to the blog but there's an issue with the html. Trust me, you will pee yourself when you see it.
It's absolutely amazing to me how it's possible to become friends with someone and communicate without more than a dozen or two words understood between you. He had a chess board and book and would point at it and say 'Bobby Fischer'. Earlier I had told him I lived in Seattle (my 'doma') and explained it by drawing the US, marking New York and then marking Seattle all the way on the other side. Then I marked Alaska and showed it was closer to Seattle. He said 'Dah! Alaska. Alaska is Russki!' I said 'Niet. Alaska Russki, skolko (or sold) America!' He would scrunch up his face like he was upset that Russia had sold Alaska.
Later, when I told him I would like to play a game of chess with him he said, 'Alaska'. And after a bit I understood he wanted us to bet Russia reclaiming Alaska if he won. He was quite funny. Thank goodness we tied the game or Alaskans would be in trouble. :)
There was an American guy that would come around and visit and he was so rude and obnoxious. I think it's because he was drunk 24/7 but he would come in and eat our food without asking and would try to take pictures of people even when they indicated they did not want to be photographed. Then the last straw for me was when he came in and asked to read my guidebook but was telling my bunk-mate and others that women were stupid and they could ignore us and slap us. I asked him shy he needed to use my book, if he was traveling for 2 years (as he had told me earlier) why didn't he have one? He told me books were for losers. So I looked at him and said then I guess you don't need to use mine, that would make you a loser. He said no, no please I need your help. I looked at him and told him I thought he was a rude asshole and I was embarrassed for America because of his actions. Then I told him to get the F out of my sleeping cabin.
When he finally left, I typed into my translator 'arrogant', 'conceited', and 'asshole' and showed my new friends. They all nodded and said 'da' 'da'. I tried to say I apologize for Americans that act like that and that I hope they do not think all Americans are that way. That same guy found me in the train station when we arrived and asked if I was 'still mad at him'. I told him yes, I still think you're a dick and an embarrassment to America. What a prick!
There was another man I made friends with. He was obviously retired and I asked what his job was. He typed into my iPhone 'colonel' and 'air force'. That seemed pretty cool to me. As we talked more and became more friendly, I got the feeling he kind of liked me. He always wanted me to eat with him and would always kiss my hand and head. But the dude was 72 so I wasn't too worried, just wanted to be polite. When I went back to my cabin my roomie (Anatoli) typed the word 'honey' into my iPhone and then said 'Viktor' (the colonel's name). He pointed and me and said 'Viktor' 'honey'. He was totally making fun of me for Viktor having a crush on me. It was quite hilarious.
Once, he went to throw an empty beer bottle out the window and I yelled "NIET!" He looked at me like I had two heads. I said 'neit' and pointed to the trash bag I had been collecting. He looked like he didn't understand. I told him it was 'garbage'. I explained how in America if you throw things out the window you get a fine - a ticket - to pay money. His eyes widened and he said 'dah??' This was totally foreign to him. So for the rest of the trip when he would pick up trash I would say 'garbage' and he would put it in the bag. If he didn't learn anything else from our time together, trust me, he learned the word 'garbage'. LOL
Then there was Bato. He said he was in the military - Army I think. I think he drank beer 20 hours a day - but he was only 26. (In Russia, you indicate drinks by flicking your neck. I will have to show you because it really can't be explained. lol) Bato was very nice and we taught each other our respective alphabets. My train arrived in Irkutsk at 3:30am and he was awake and dressed to help me carry my bags out, as was the colonel and Anatoli. So nice!!
The train attendants were also very nice. There was only one outlet that had the right currency to charge my iPhone and it was near the bathroom. I plugged it in and then the attendants came to me and indicated that I should not leave it because it might get stolen. (Very nice of them to be watching out for me.) So I sat on the trash bin lid, just outside the toilet for THREE HOURS while it charged. During this time an extremely intoxicated Russian woman decided to try and talk to me. Imagine - I don't understand Russian and she's so drunk she's slurring her Russian words. When I would say 'I don't understand' she would either talk louder or slower, or often both. Very annoying.
Oh, and then there was the Russian-American language exchange lessons. Anatoli, Bato, Viktor and I were all sitting around having some smoked fish and beer (very tasty together!) and started translating cuss words. I have this app that is not a dictionary, but rather a phrase translator. It has all kinds of very bad Russian words! So we both learned 'fuck/nah-whee', 'shit/dare-mo' and 'dickhead/zal-oopa'. Amazingly, zaloopa is way worse in Russian than nahwhee. I would say zaloopa and Viktor the Colonel would shake his finger at me and mime spanking me. Then, I got the best video of Anatoli and Viktor saying 'fucks, shits, fuckk, fucks, fuckk, deek-had'. I was literally crying I laughed so hard. I tried to upload it to the blog but there's an issue with the html. Trust me, you will pee yourself when you see it.
Sunday, September 6, 2009
3 1/2 days on a train!
A note of caveat: I wrote all the following blog posts on my iPhone on the train so wasn't able to spell check, etc.
My train left Kazan at 2:25am and I was so worried about missing it I didn't sleep. When I finally made it there I was laden with 70 lbs. of backpacks and probably another 25 in food and bottled water and I was f-ing exhausted. I barely fit down the aisle of the train and it was pitch dark. So I pulled out my headlamp, which I had remembered to put in an easily reachable location. I finally got my backpack under the bed, pulled out my nighttime toilet kit and went the toilet. But, it was locked. I asked around to people standing in the aisle and they all gave me the arms crossed 'it's closed' signal.
I seriously thought it was closed for the whole night and as I was already drenched in sweat, exhausted and had to pee badly. I was livid. I thought 'I'll f-ing stick my ass out the door of this train if I have to', but it had already started to move and I couldn't get the doors open. I seriously thought I was going to have to pee on the floor! I went and got the 'provodnistik' or male train attendant and asked 'toilet'? He gave me the same arm crossed sign and I got really animated and mimed peeing on the floor. He looked exasperated but held up a finger like 'just a minute'. When he came back he had the key and unlocked the toilet. My roommate made a face and gesture like 'good job!'
The next day, after I had made friends with my roommate and we were figuring out how to communicate, I learned that they close the toilets at the stations and then for 30 min after we leave so as not to pollute the populated areas. (The toilets open right onto the tracks.) I tried to apologize to the attendant I had threatened with urinating on the floor and I think he might have understood. lol
So, I'm exhausted, sweating and had to threaten to pee on the floor, and then I see the toilet and wish I had of. This must be the oldest still operating train in Russia! I'll send iPhone pics and you will understand! At this point I'm pissed and think the next three days are going to be torture! I can't believe I paid almost $250 for this hellhole. When it first pulled up my first thought was it looked like a Nazi train they took people to the gas chamber in. I'm not joiking. It was that awful looking.
But, after an ok night of sleep despite the ridiculously hard seat/bed and almost non-existent bed padding (enabled by my trusty sleep mask and iPhone white noise app), I felt better. But, I was still completely taken aback at the sight of the train and the facilities. I went exploring and found the coal bucket and shovel they use to heat the train compartments, and saw the attendant starting a WOOD fire. She somehow explained it was to heat the hot water. Craziness!
I went to look at 3rd class, or 'platzkart' and was pretty glad I had upgraded. It was stifling hot and afforded zero privacy. Michael had been right to insist I change to 'kupe' or 2nd class. So 'kupe' is a tad nicer but as it is a lot more expensive ($150 more) there are no backpacker or anyone that speaks English. My roommate is 60 and doesn't speak a word of English, but after 2 days we have become friends and even joke around with each other. I had to wash my underwear and hang them in the window to dry and he made a gesture like wearing them on his head. Another Russian man of 72 years that I also made friends with was in our carriage and they busted out laughing. I did the 'shame shame' finger at him and it was just funny.
That's as far as I've gotten in writing so far. Now I am in Irkutsk and want to see the city and make it to Listvynkya before dark so I will sign off for now. There are many more stories about the train, but they will have to wait for later. :)
Photos
Here are some photos and a video I took with my iPhone.
This is the toilet on the train!
I asked why Russians do this to their beautiful, expenisve cars and I got a quite reasonable answer. The crazier you paint and decorate it, the less likely it is to be stolen!
Matroyshka dolls. There are TEN dolls in this picture!
This is the toilet on the train!
I asked why Russians do this to their beautiful, expenisve cars and I got a quite reasonable answer. The crazier you paint and decorate it, the less likely it is to be stolen!
Matroyshka dolls. There are TEN dolls in this picture!
Train to Kazan
I took the train at 10pm from Moscow to Kazan on Sept 2nd. On the train I met Michael who spoke some English. He had some very disturbing ideas about Americans. He said he saw on the news that a Russian child came to live with American parents and they killed it. He made the gesture of shooting a gun. Once I understood what he was saying I said 'niet'!! He said 'you don't speak the truth'. He literally thought I was lying. So I spent more than 30 min trying to understand what he meant. Turns out the American parents had left the child in the car on a hot day and it had died. I had to look on my translator to find 'on purpose' and say 'niet', 'niet', 'NIET'! I told him it made me very sad he thought anyone would do that to a child on purpose. I think he may have finally believed me, but that is a scary example of the Russian/Soviet propaganda machine at work.
He also thinks all Americans own guns and all women cry rape. Through a weird conversation I told him about the rapist in Philadelphia that I beat with the bat. He made a "roll your eyes" face and said 'all women say rape'. I explained to him the guy came in my window and was definitely a rapist. He seemed to understand and then asked why I didn't just shoot him. (Again, the hand like a gun gesture.) I said because I don't have a gun. He said 'you don't speak the truth'. I said I didn't understand and he said 'ALL Americans own guns'. I said niet. None of my friends own guns. I explained that my uncle owns guns to hunt but none of my friends own guns to kill people. He seemed very hesitant to believe me.
Then he started asking me if my parents have money. When I said none at all he asked if my friends parents have money, and do we put it together - like in the same bank account? I said no only when you are married. He was making me very nervous with these questions, like he was assessing how much ransom someone would pay for me! I even slept with my pocket knife under my pillow, but he turned out to be very nice and he must have just been curious because I wanted to ring the hotel and reserve a room in Kazan so he called for me. He reserved a room and then he proceeded to insist that he and his work colleague drive me there. He then came in with me and made sure I wasn't overcharged and the room was available.
He said he studies English because he would like to move but it is very hard to leave Russia. Can you imagine not being allowed to leave your country?! He said he doesn't want to live in America though because we are all about the individual person and not the collective, like to take care of one another. He said that Americans don't like black people and I said 'but we have one as our President. America is changing.' He looked thoughtful and finally said, 'this is true.'
Our other bunk mate was a strapping young Russian man of just 20, but he was wearing more gold than Midas, and was carrying a Gucci travel bag and wearing an Armani t-shirt and Dolce & Gabana jeans (he proudly showed me the label). I asked what kind of work he did and he said oil. Michael translated that he works for a Houston firm and he does drilling. Oil brings in big money for Russians and they like to display their wealth prominently.
I put my things in the hotel room and ate breakfast, and then set off to explore the city. The white Kremlin is the city's main attraction, but first I found a gorgeous mosque built in 1723. I saw all the women entering were wearing head scarves so I motioned to my head like 'it is necessary?' she said yes and pointed inside and said 'skolko', which means roughly 'how much' or 'to buy'. I try to be very conscious and respectful of other customs and cultures, so I put my jacket over my head, went in and bought a head scarf and then went back outside to put the head scarf on. I hope I am leaving a good impression of Americans here in Mother Russia.
After visiting this mosque and taking some beautiful pictures, I wandered in the direction of the train station to exchange my 3rd class ticket for 2nd class. A woman at the tourist info office wrote out in Russian for me exactly what I needed and I showed it to an official-looking woman at the station. I explained that I needed a 'bank-o-mat' first, as the train stations do not take credit cards. This wonderful woman walked me across cobblestones in her stilettos, to the station next door with the ATM, waited for me to withdraw money, walked me two buildings further away, stood in line with me, and told the cashier what I needed. She even waited until I had the ticket in my hand and checked it before bidding me goodbye. I said 'spa-see-ba bol-shoy bol-shoy', which means 'thank you very, very much and typed into my translator, 'you are a very kind person'. She said 'puh-zhal-usta', which means 'you're welcome', 'not at all' and 'please'- all in one word! lol
I continued to wander and came across an automotive flea market. I took some pictures and indicated I would like to buy an air freshener. It seemed like too much money so I bartered but she said 'niet'. I pointed to the lesser amount I had written and said 'souvenir' trying to explain I didn't want to pay much because it was just a souvenir. Without saying anything more, she took it down and handed it to me. I pointed to my lesser amount and she said 'niet' and pressed it into my hand and said 'souvenir'. She just gave it to me and would not accept any money. Russia is full of wonderful people.
Then there are the not so great ones. To visit the white Kremlin/mosque women must have all their skin covered and everyone must have their shoes covered. Since I was daring a skort and sleeveless top this necessitated having a Muslim attendant wrap cloth around my waist and shoulders, and everyone had to wear paper hospital booties (which of course we had to pay for).
Unfortunately, I got the male attendant and as he was wrapping my shoulders he grazed my chest. It ran through my mind this might have been on purpose, but I wanted to give him the benefit of the doubt. But the second time when he more like pressed his hand into my breast I knew it was no accident. If I had have been fluent in Russian I would have told him is it not a sin for a Muslim man to touch the breast of a woman who is not his wife, and not even a Muslim?! I would have told him he should have his hand cut off. But since I can't speak Russian, I just walked away feeling slightly violated. I surely hope Muslim women do not have to put up with that kind of treatment.
As I was taking the train to Irkutsk that night and would be on it for 3 days, I went the grocery store (called 'magazine' here) and stocked up. I will spare you the details of trying to find what I was looking for, but will relate another 'this is Russia' story. When I went to check out it was half an hour to closing time. There were literally 12 people in line and 3 store employees, including the apparent manager, were just standing at the only open check stand. Two guys came up to the line and they only had one beer each. When the employees waived the guys forward I thought they were going to open the other cash register for people with only a few items. But no, they just put them at the front of the line in front of all 12 other people who were waiting; "This is Russia".
He also thinks all Americans own guns and all women cry rape. Through a weird conversation I told him about the rapist in Philadelphia that I beat with the bat. He made a "roll your eyes" face and said 'all women say rape'. I explained to him the guy came in my window and was definitely a rapist. He seemed to understand and then asked why I didn't just shoot him. (Again, the hand like a gun gesture.) I said because I don't have a gun. He said 'you don't speak the truth'. I said I didn't understand and he said 'ALL Americans own guns'. I said niet. None of my friends own guns. I explained that my uncle owns guns to hunt but none of my friends own guns to kill people. He seemed very hesitant to believe me.
Then he started asking me if my parents have money. When I said none at all he asked if my friends parents have money, and do we put it together - like in the same bank account? I said no only when you are married. He was making me very nervous with these questions, like he was assessing how much ransom someone would pay for me! I even slept with my pocket knife under my pillow, but he turned out to be very nice and he must have just been curious because I wanted to ring the hotel and reserve a room in Kazan so he called for me. He reserved a room and then he proceeded to insist that he and his work colleague drive me there. He then came in with me and made sure I wasn't overcharged and the room was available.
He said he studies English because he would like to move but it is very hard to leave Russia. Can you imagine not being allowed to leave your country?! He said he doesn't want to live in America though because we are all about the individual person and not the collective, like to take care of one another. He said that Americans don't like black people and I said 'but we have one as our President. America is changing.' He looked thoughtful and finally said, 'this is true.'
Our other bunk mate was a strapping young Russian man of just 20, but he was wearing more gold than Midas, and was carrying a Gucci travel bag and wearing an Armani t-shirt and Dolce & Gabana jeans (he proudly showed me the label). I asked what kind of work he did and he said oil. Michael translated that he works for a Houston firm and he does drilling. Oil brings in big money for Russians and they like to display their wealth prominently.
I put my things in the hotel room and ate breakfast, and then set off to explore the city. The white Kremlin is the city's main attraction, but first I found a gorgeous mosque built in 1723. I saw all the women entering were wearing head scarves so I motioned to my head like 'it is necessary?' she said yes and pointed inside and said 'skolko', which means roughly 'how much' or 'to buy'. I try to be very conscious and respectful of other customs and cultures, so I put my jacket over my head, went in and bought a head scarf and then went back outside to put the head scarf on. I hope I am leaving a good impression of Americans here in Mother Russia.
After visiting this mosque and taking some beautiful pictures, I wandered in the direction of the train station to exchange my 3rd class ticket for 2nd class. A woman at the tourist info office wrote out in Russian for me exactly what I needed and I showed it to an official-looking woman at the station. I explained that I needed a 'bank-o-mat' first, as the train stations do not take credit cards. This wonderful woman walked me across cobblestones in her stilettos, to the station next door with the ATM, waited for me to withdraw money, walked me two buildings further away, stood in line with me, and told the cashier what I needed. She even waited until I had the ticket in my hand and checked it before bidding me goodbye. I said 'spa-see-ba bol-shoy bol-shoy', which means 'thank you very, very much and typed into my translator, 'you are a very kind person'. She said 'puh-zhal-usta', which means 'you're welcome', 'not at all' and 'please'- all in one word! lol
I continued to wander and came across an automotive flea market. I took some pictures and indicated I would like to buy an air freshener. It seemed like too much money so I bartered but she said 'niet'. I pointed to the lesser amount I had written and said 'souvenir' trying to explain I didn't want to pay much because it was just a souvenir. Without saying anything more, she took it down and handed it to me. I pointed to my lesser amount and she said 'niet' and pressed it into my hand and said 'souvenir'. She just gave it to me and would not accept any money. Russia is full of wonderful people.
Then there are the not so great ones. To visit the white Kremlin/mosque women must have all their skin covered and everyone must have their shoes covered. Since I was daring a skort and sleeveless top this necessitated having a Muslim attendant wrap cloth around my waist and shoulders, and everyone had to wear paper hospital booties (which of course we had to pay for).
Unfortunately, I got the male attendant and as he was wrapping my shoulders he grazed my chest. It ran through my mind this might have been on purpose, but I wanted to give him the benefit of the doubt. But the second time when he more like pressed his hand into my breast I knew it was no accident. If I had have been fluent in Russian I would have told him is it not a sin for a Muslim man to touch the breast of a woman who is not his wife, and not even a Muslim?! I would have told him he should have his hand cut off. But since I can't speak Russian, I just walked away feeling slightly violated. I surely hope Muslim women do not have to put up with that kind of treatment.
As I was taking the train to Irkutsk that night and would be on it for 3 days, I went the grocery store (called 'magazine' here) and stocked up. I will spare you the details of trying to find what I was looking for, but will relate another 'this is Russia' story. When I went to check out it was half an hour to closing time. There were literally 12 people in line and 3 store employees, including the apparent manager, were just standing at the only open check stand. Two guys came up to the line and they only had one beer each. When the employees waived the guys forward I thought they were going to open the other cash register for people with only a few items. But no, they just put them at the front of the line in front of all 12 other people who were waiting; "This is Russia".
The banya
So the banya. I read about banyas and what a part of life they are for Russians so I knew I had to try it. I went with the one in the guidebook as they recommended it highly. After probably 30 min of charades we agreed to steam bath, venik (exfoliation using oaks branches soaked in soapy water with eucalyptus oil) and 1/2 hour massage for neck and feet.
As I followed the woman into the steam room she disrobed and directed me up the stairs to some cedar benches. Then she opened an iron door in the 2 story brick furnace and began throwing in ladles of water. Within 60 seconds the temperature began to rise. And rise. And rise. After about 3 min it was becoming hard to breathe deeply. I indicated this to her and she told me to put my towel on the floor and put my head between my knees. (Heat rises so get lower was the idea I think.) This did help a little but I swear it was so hot it felt like my eyelashes were burning my cheeks when I closed my eyes tight. She said something like '80' and I think maybe she meant it was 80* C? I don't know what that is in F, but it was insanely intense!
After 10 min (which felt like 30) I couldn't take it anymore. She took me out to the main bath area and had me stand with my back to the tubs of water. She dipped a large bucket and starting at my feet, she poured ice cold water on my legs, back and then over my head, and it felt wonderful! She poured another bucket over my head and then took me back to the steam room. After a few more min in there I had had enough. I went out to the sitting room where the food, water and tea I had ordered were waiting. My heart was racing but she said that was normal. (Again, remember I am miming everything to communicate.)
Then it was time for venik. I layed down on my stomach and she started softly then got progressively harder. Then she had me turn over and put my hands over my breasts and she did the front. Other women were in the steam room and they were standing on the benches trying to get to the hottest spot in the room!
After this it was time for my massage. I like a good strong massage so I charaded to her 'strong massage! Grrr!' let me just give a word of warning to any of you that might be planning to get a massage from a Russian masseuse anytime soon. They take you seriously! That was Wed, today is Fri and I'm *almost* not sore anymore. It was miraculous for my feet but my neck and upper back are still sore.
As I followed the woman into the steam room she disrobed and directed me up the stairs to some cedar benches. Then she opened an iron door in the 2 story brick furnace and began throwing in ladles of water. Within 60 seconds the temperature began to rise. And rise. And rise. After about 3 min it was becoming hard to breathe deeply. I indicated this to her and she told me to put my towel on the floor and put my head between my knees. (Heat rises so get lower was the idea I think.) This did help a little but I swear it was so hot it felt like my eyelashes were burning my cheeks when I closed my eyes tight. She said something like '80' and I think maybe she meant it was 80* C? I don't know what that is in F, but it was insanely intense!
After 10 min (which felt like 30) I couldn't take it anymore. She took me out to the main bath area and had me stand with my back to the tubs of water. She dipped a large bucket and starting at my feet, she poured ice cold water on my legs, back and then over my head, and it felt wonderful! She poured another bucket over my head and then took me back to the steam room. After a few more min in there I had had enough. I went out to the sitting room where the food, water and tea I had ordered were waiting. My heart was racing but she said that was normal. (Again, remember I am miming everything to communicate.)
Then it was time for venik. I layed down on my stomach and she started softly then got progressively harder. Then she had me turn over and put my hands over my breasts and she did the front. Other women were in the steam room and they were standing on the benches trying to get to the hottest spot in the room!
After this it was time for my massage. I like a good strong massage so I charaded to her 'strong massage! Grrr!' let me just give a word of warning to any of you that might be planning to get a massage from a Russian masseuse anytime soon. They take you seriously! That was Wed, today is Fri and I'm *almost* not sore anymore. It was miraculous for my feet but my neck and upper back are still sore.
Thursday, September 3, 2009
Moscow and Kazan
Strasvitzya friends and family!
I have decided to keep this blog rather than email. This way you can read what you want -- or not!
Let's see, has it been only 2 or 3 days since I last wrote? Seems like a week!
Random thoughts/observations on Moscow:
* There are SO many police/military/law enforcement people here! I swear there must be one for ever 2 citizens in Moscow. It's unreal!
*Everyone over the age of 13 smokes - everyone! I'm told this is because cigarettes are cheap - Marlboro is $2 a pack
*Every woman under the age of 75 wears stilettos - like 5"!! And they don't take them off to ride the subway or walk home like the women in NYC.
*Everything is gigantic. The buildings, the signs on buildings, the trucks, the jewels. Large and overbearing seems to be the Moscow motto
*Moscow is HUGE! I heard it was the largest European capital and it must be by a long shot!
*Moscovites have very odd taste in vehicle decorations. I took a picture of a prime example with my iPhone and will send it under separate email because I can't upload
*Everyone under the age of 90 has a job. I can't tell you how many people I saw in various uniform dress sweeping the streets, repairing buildings, cleaning windows, mopping the roofs, mowing the lawn, painting gravestones at the Kremlin wall..... EVERYONE has a job!
So, more about my journey. Tuesday morning was spent doing step one of obtaining the registration for the visa - yes there were two steps that involved returning again the next night between 7-9pm. Then we did the Moscow walking tour. After going to the train station to help a CSer buy her ticket, we wandered in what we thought was the general direction of the Kremlin. Looking at the map proved to be more confusing than helpful and everyone we asked seemed to want to send us in a different direction. We did find our first МАКДОНАЛДС - that's Cyrillic for McDonald's. And why you ask, would I choose Russia as the first place to enter a McDonald's in over a year? Three words - 'Coca Cola Light'. It was almost impossible to find anywhere else in the city, a least under 1 liter.
We continued to wander and enjoy exploring Moscow and we did eventually find the Kremlin and Red Square. I also bought my first matroyska doll that goes *ridiculously tiny*. I took pictures and will also send that via email. We also went to the largest and poshist shopping mall in Moscow, which borders Red Square. Then it was on to St. Basil's which is so vibrant in color and architecture, it looks cartoonish. It's very, very beautiful. By this time we had been walking for 7 hours and I didn't think I could make it one more step. I went back to the flat and promptly fell asleep for 1.5 hours. Of course, this screwed up my sleep schedule and time zones and I was up until 2am visiting with the other CSers.
Oh, I also went back to the supermarket that night and found a handsome security guard that was very friendly. I was trying to find a 2 in 1 shampoo and conditioner and the comedy of charades and iPhone translations that ensued was very funny. Once we finally figured out I wanted 'shampoo plus conditioner', didn't care what 'braand', wanted for a woman not man and wanted to spend the 'little money' I had what I needed.
Then I decided I wanted a good beer. So I motioned my new friend over and asked for 'good beer'' and 'brown/dark'. He pointed to "Michelob Midnight' and I gave him a thumbs down and said 'American beer bad'. He thought this was hilarious and evidently relayed this to the stock boy who was nearby and they both had a good laugh. (I ended up leaving with a Czech beer that was delicious!)
One thing he couldn't help me with though was eyeliner. Evidently that is sold in the pharmacy that was already closed. After this trip I *dare* anyone to beat me at charades. Just think how you would mime 'eyeliner'. I tried it all and finally he understood.
Wednesday morning we got up early to see Lenin's Mausoleum and the Armory with a CSer. Lenin's tomb is quite the experience in Soviet militaristic control. You must check all cameras and video recording devices (including phones with cameras) at the left luggage desk. Then you must have your bag searched. When you enter the tomb a military guard is standing there. Notice I said 'is standing there' and not 'greeted by'; military/police in Moscow do not speak to you. (With one or two nicely surprising exceptions.) You enter almost complete darkness and run the risk of tumbling down a flight of stairs because our eyes haven't adjusted yet.
At the bottom of the stairs there is another guard who doesn't speak to you or even look at you. Then you go down another flight of stairs and another guard is there. Then you come into Lenin's chamber where he lays under glass and looking exactly like a wax mummy. (I read in the guidebook that is actually how they preserve him - every year they dip him in wax. Can you imagine being the one that has to undress him for that process? Yikes)
The woman in front of us stopped for a moment to gaze upon his waxiness and immediately the guards (oh yeah, there are 3 of them in the chamber) told her to keep moving. At least that's what I assume he said because he snapped his fingers and motioned her forward. Oh and there is no speaking once you set foot in the chamber. That draws loud "shhhhh"s from the guards.
So as you maintain the slowest possible momentum, you gaze upon Lenin in wax and I guess are supposed to be awed? Interesting indeed. On the way out there are two more guards. Now why I ask did I have to leave my camera when had I even attempted to adjust it on my shoulder, I would have been tackled and shackled by 8 military guards? The answer, as with everything in Russia - money. It costs 20 rubles (about $0.63) to leave you camera, but multiply that by the tens of millions that I'm sure visit Lenin's tomb every year..... yeah.
The Armory was at first impressive, then overwhelming, and then mind numbing in the amount of gold and silver and precious and semi-precious stones it holds. Because Russia has such a wealth of natural resources, and because in Moscow 'bigger is better' the decorative covers of all their religious texts are covered with stones 3 finger widths by 2.5 finger widths, haphazardly thrown around.
After this I continued to walk around while the CSer returned to the flat. That night I was again wrecked and exhausted, but there was a Moscow-wide CS get together at a pub and I couldn't say no. After all, you can sleep when you're dead right? That tuned out to be a 3am night also. But I met a great girl named Katia at the CS gathering and she said she would help me get to the train station the next night. She speaks perfect English and even understands slang like 'twist my arm'. This is *highly* unusual in Russia where most people speak very little or none.
On Thursday morning, even though I was dead tired and somewhat hungover, I got up at 8am, washed and hung clothes and went to buy my train ticket and see the Kremlin and St. Basil's. The train ticket story would take way too much time to explain and would be boring to recite, but let's just say that the CSers and I came up with a new phrase: "This is Russia." For example: Question: 'Why is this car parked in the middle of the sidewalk/street?' Answer: "This is Russia" Q: Why does it take 4 minutes to get the extra 50 rubles the metro woman short changed me?' A: "This is Russia." Q: 'Why did I pay for 4 metro rides but after one my card says invalid... and no one cares to try and help me except 'buy new ticket'?" A: "This is Russia." You get the idea....
After securing my train tickets 1.5 hours later (and that's with native Russian CSer doing all the talking!) I was off to speed walk through the Kremlin to say I had been there. I also really wanted to experience a banya and had read it takes at least 2 hours. My thoughts on the Kremlin: Unless you read Russian, there's not much to see; the militaristic regiment is high (I was whistled at and given a stern 'Neit' when tried to cross outside of the walkway and was approached in person and told I was not allowed to sit on the steps of the Kremlin grounds. ); and the toilet is the wost thing I have *ever* smelled.
The banya however was a whole different story. It was everything I had thought it would be and more. After some 20 mins of miming and negotiating prices I had paid $30 for the privilege of staying in the banya for 3 hours, $45 for a 35 min neck and foot massage, $20 for a naked Russian woman to beat me with oak leaves soaked in essential oils, $2 for a towel and about $20 for tea, water and snacks. But it was worth every penny and more!
I will write more about that later as I only have a few mins of internet left and I can barely keep my eyes open. (It's only 7:30pm here - so much for adjusting time zones. Although getting only 6 hours of sleep on the train last night didn't help either.)
Signing off for now from Kazan - will write more from Irkutsk in 3 days. I'll be on the train until then!
I have decided to keep this blog rather than email. This way you can read what you want -- or not!
Let's see, has it been only 2 or 3 days since I last wrote? Seems like a week!
Random thoughts/observations on Moscow:
* There are SO many police/military/law enforcement people here! I swear there must be one for ever 2 citizens in Moscow. It's unreal!
*Everyone over the age of 13 smokes - everyone! I'm told this is because cigarettes are cheap - Marlboro is $2 a pack
*Every woman under the age of 75 wears stilettos - like 5"!! And they don't take them off to ride the subway or walk home like the women in NYC.
*Everything is gigantic. The buildings, the signs on buildings, the trucks, the jewels. Large and overbearing seems to be the Moscow motto
*Moscow is HUGE! I heard it was the largest European capital and it must be by a long shot!
*Moscovites have very odd taste in vehicle decorations. I took a picture of a prime example with my iPhone and will send it under separate email because I can't upload
*Everyone under the age of 90 has a job. I can't tell you how many people I saw in various uniform dress sweeping the streets, repairing buildings, cleaning windows, mopping the roofs, mowing the lawn, painting gravestones at the Kremlin wall..... EVERYONE has a job!
So, more about my journey. Tuesday morning was spent doing step one of obtaining the registration for the visa - yes there were two steps that involved returning again the next night between 7-9pm. Then we did the Moscow walking tour. After going to the train station to help a CSer buy her ticket, we wandered in what we thought was the general direction of the Kremlin. Looking at the map proved to be more confusing than helpful and everyone we asked seemed to want to send us in a different direction. We did find our first МАКДОНАЛДС - that's Cyrillic for McDonald's. And why you ask, would I choose Russia as the first place to enter a McDonald's in over a year? Three words - 'Coca Cola Light'. It was almost impossible to find anywhere else in the city, a least under 1 liter.
We continued to wander and enjoy exploring Moscow and we did eventually find the Kremlin and Red Square. I also bought my first matroyska doll that goes *ridiculously tiny*. I took pictures and will also send that via email. We also went to the largest and poshist shopping mall in Moscow, which borders Red Square. Then it was on to St. Basil's which is so vibrant in color and architecture, it looks cartoonish. It's very, very beautiful. By this time we had been walking for 7 hours and I didn't think I could make it one more step. I went back to the flat and promptly fell asleep for 1.5 hours. Of course, this screwed up my sleep schedule and time zones and I was up until 2am visiting with the other CSers.
Oh, I also went back to the supermarket that night and found a handsome security guard that was very friendly. I was trying to find a 2 in 1 shampoo and conditioner and the comedy of charades and iPhone translations that ensued was very funny. Once we finally figured out I wanted 'shampoo plus conditioner', didn't care what 'braand', wanted for a woman not man and wanted to spend the 'little money' I had what I needed.
Then I decided I wanted a good beer. So I motioned my new friend over and asked for 'good beer'' and 'brown/dark'. He pointed to "Michelob Midnight' and I gave him a thumbs down and said 'American beer bad'. He thought this was hilarious and evidently relayed this to the stock boy who was nearby and they both had a good laugh. (I ended up leaving with a Czech beer that was delicious!)
One thing he couldn't help me with though was eyeliner. Evidently that is sold in the pharmacy that was already closed. After this trip I *dare* anyone to beat me at charades. Just think how you would mime 'eyeliner'. I tried it all and finally he understood.
Wednesday morning we got up early to see Lenin's Mausoleum and the Armory with a CSer. Lenin's tomb is quite the experience in Soviet militaristic control. You must check all cameras and video recording devices (including phones with cameras) at the left luggage desk. Then you must have your bag searched. When you enter the tomb a military guard is standing there. Notice I said 'is standing there' and not 'greeted by'; military/police in Moscow do not speak to you. (With one or two nicely surprising exceptions.) You enter almost complete darkness and run the risk of tumbling down a flight of stairs because our eyes haven't adjusted yet.
At the bottom of the stairs there is another guard who doesn't speak to you or even look at you. Then you go down another flight of stairs and another guard is there. Then you come into Lenin's chamber where he lays under glass and looking exactly like a wax mummy. (I read in the guidebook that is actually how they preserve him - every year they dip him in wax. Can you imagine being the one that has to undress him for that process? Yikes)
The woman in front of us stopped for a moment to gaze upon his waxiness and immediately the guards (oh yeah, there are 3 of them in the chamber) told her to keep moving. At least that's what I assume he said because he snapped his fingers and motioned her forward. Oh and there is no speaking once you set foot in the chamber. That draws loud "shhhhh"s from the guards.
So as you maintain the slowest possible momentum, you gaze upon Lenin in wax and I guess are supposed to be awed? Interesting indeed. On the way out there are two more guards. Now why I ask did I have to leave my camera when had I even attempted to adjust it on my shoulder, I would have been tackled and shackled by 8 military guards? The answer, as with everything in Russia - money. It costs 20 rubles (about $0.63) to leave you camera, but multiply that by the tens of millions that I'm sure visit Lenin's tomb every year..... yeah.
The Armory was at first impressive, then overwhelming, and then mind numbing in the amount of gold and silver and precious and semi-precious stones it holds. Because Russia has such a wealth of natural resources, and because in Moscow 'bigger is better' the decorative covers of all their religious texts are covered with stones 3 finger widths by 2.5 finger widths, haphazardly thrown around.
After this I continued to walk around while the CSer returned to the flat. That night I was again wrecked and exhausted, but there was a Moscow-wide CS get together at a pub and I couldn't say no. After all, you can sleep when you're dead right? That tuned out to be a 3am night also. But I met a great girl named Katia at the CS gathering and she said she would help me get to the train station the next night. She speaks perfect English and even understands slang like 'twist my arm'. This is *highly* unusual in Russia where most people speak very little or none.
On Thursday morning, even though I was dead tired and somewhat hungover, I got up at 8am, washed and hung clothes and went to buy my train ticket and see the Kremlin and St. Basil's. The train ticket story would take way too much time to explain and would be boring to recite, but let's just say that the CSers and I came up with a new phrase: "This is Russia." For example: Question: 'Why is this car parked in the middle of the sidewalk/street?' Answer: "This is Russia" Q: Why does it take 4 minutes to get the extra 50 rubles the metro woman short changed me?' A: "This is Russia." Q: 'Why did I pay for 4 metro rides but after one my card says invalid... and no one cares to try and help me except 'buy new ticket'?" A: "This is Russia." You get the idea....
After securing my train tickets 1.5 hours later (and that's with native Russian CSer doing all the talking!) I was off to speed walk through the Kremlin to say I had been there. I also really wanted to experience a banya and had read it takes at least 2 hours. My thoughts on the Kremlin: Unless you read Russian, there's not much to see; the militaristic regiment is high (I was whistled at and given a stern 'Neit' when tried to cross outside of the walkway and was approached in person and told I was not allowed to sit on the steps of the Kremlin grounds. ); and the toilet is the wost thing I have *ever* smelled.
The banya however was a whole different story. It was everything I had thought it would be and more. After some 20 mins of miming and negotiating prices I had paid $30 for the privilege of staying in the banya for 3 hours, $45 for a 35 min neck and foot massage, $20 for a naked Russian woman to beat me with oak leaves soaked in essential oils, $2 for a towel and about $20 for tea, water and snacks. But it was worth every penny and more!
I will write more about that later as I only have a few mins of internet left and I can barely keep my eyes open. (It's only 7:30pm here - so much for adjusting time zones. Although getting only 6 hours of sleep on the train last night didn't help either.)
Signing off for now from Kazan - will write more from Irkutsk in 3 days. I'll be on the train until then!
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