3 1/2 days on a train!

A note of caveat: I wrote all the following blog posts on my iPhone on the train so wasn't able to spell check, etc.

My train left Kazan at 2:25am and I was so worried about missing it I didn't sleep. When I finally made it there I was laden with 70 lbs. of backpacks and probably another 25 in food and bottled water and I was f-ing exhausted. I barely fit down the aisle of the train and it was pitch dark. So I pulled out my headlamp, which I had remembered to put in an easily reachable location. I finally got my backpack under the bed, pulled out my nighttime toilet kit and went the toilet. But, it was locked. I asked around to people standing in the aisle and they all gave me the arms crossed 'it's closed' signal.

I seriously thought it was closed for the whole night and as I was already drenched in sweat, exhausted and had to pee badly. I was livid. I thought 'I'll f-ing stick my ass out the door of this train if I have to', but it had already started to move and I couldn't get the doors open. I seriously thought I was going to have to pee on the floor! I went and got the 'provodnistik' or male train attendant and asked 'toilet'? He gave me the same arm crossed sign and I got really animated and mimed peeing on the floor. He looked exasperated but held up a finger like 'just a minute'. When he came back he had the key and unlocked the toilet. My roommate made a face and gesture like 'good job!'

The next day, after I had made friends with my roommate and we were figuring out how to communicate, I learned that they close the toilets at the stations and then for 30 min after we leave so as not to pollute the populated areas. (The toilets open right onto the tracks.) I tried to apologize to the attendant I had threatened with urinating on the floor and I think he might have understood. lol

So, I'm exhausted, sweating and had to threaten to pee on the floor, and then I see the toilet and wish I had of. This must be the oldest still operating train in Russia! I'll send iPhone pics and you will understand! At this point I'm pissed and think the next three days are going to be torture! I can't believe I paid almost $250 for this hellhole. When it first pulled up my first thought was it looked like a Nazi train they took people to the gas chamber in. I'm not joiking. It was that awful looking.

But, after an ok night of sleep despite the ridiculously hard seat/bed and almost non-existent bed padding (enabled by my trusty sleep mask and iPhone white noise app), I felt better. But, I was still completely taken aback at the sight of the train and the facilities. I went exploring and found the coal bucket and shovel they use to heat the train compartments, and saw the attendant starting a WOOD fire. She somehow explained it was to heat the hot water. Craziness!

I went to look at 3rd class, or 'platzkart' and was pretty glad I had upgraded. It was stifling hot and afforded zero privacy. Michael had been right to insist I change to 'kupe' or 2nd class. So 'kupe' is a tad nicer but as it is a lot more expensive ($150 more) there are no backpacker or anyone that speaks English. My roommate is 60 and doesn't speak a word of English, but after 2 days we have become friends and even joke around with each other. I had to wash my underwear and hang them in the window to dry and he made a gesture like wearing them on his head. Another Russian man of 72 years that I also made friends with was in our carriage and they busted out laughing. I did the 'shame shame' finger at him and it was just funny.

That's as far as I've gotten in writing so far. Now I am in Irkutsk and want to see the city and make it to Listvynkya before dark so I will sign off for now. There are many more stories about the train, but they will have to wait for later. :)

Photos

Here are some photos and a video I took with my iPhone.

This is the toilet on the train!

I asked why Russians do this to their beautiful, expenisve cars and I got a quite reasonable answer. The crazier you paint and decorate it, the less likely it is to be stolen!


Matroyshka dolls. There are TEN dolls in this picture!

Train to Kazan

I took the train at 10pm from Moscow to Kazan on Sept 2nd. On the train I met Michael who spoke some English. He had some very disturbing ideas about Americans. He said he saw on the news that a Russian child came to live with American parents and they killed it. He made the gesture of shooting a gun. Once I understood what he was saying I said 'niet'!! He said 'you don't speak the truth'. He literally thought I was lying. So I spent more than 30 min trying to understand what he meant. Turns out the American parents had left the child in the car on a hot day and it had died. I had to look on my translator to find 'on purpose' and say 'niet', 'niet', 'NIET'! I told him it made me very sad he thought anyone would do that to a child on purpose. I think he may have finally believed me, but that is a scary example of the Russian/Soviet propaganda machine at work.

He also thinks all Americans own guns and all women cry rape. Through a weird conversation I told him about the rapist in Philadelphia that I beat with the bat. He made a "roll your eyes" face and said 'all women say rape'. I explained to him the guy came in my window and was definitely a rapist. He seemed to understand and then asked why I didn't just shoot him. (Again, the hand like a gun gesture.) I said because I don't have a gun. He said 'you don't speak the truth'. I said I didn't understand and he said 'ALL Americans own guns'. I said niet. None of my friends own guns. I explained that my uncle owns guns to hunt but none of my friends own guns to kill people. He seemed very hesitant to believe me.

Then he started asking me if my parents have money. When I said none at all he asked if my friends parents have money, and do we put it together - like in the same bank account? I said no only when you are married. He was making me very nervous with these questions, like he was assessing how much ransom someone would pay for me! I even slept with my pocket knife under my pillow, but he turned out to be very nice and he must have just been curious because I wanted to ring the hotel and reserve a room in Kazan so he called for me. He reserved a room and then he proceeded to insist that he and his work colleague drive me there. He then came in with me and made sure I wasn't overcharged and the room was available.

He said he studies English because he would like to move but it is very hard to leave Russia. Can you imagine not being allowed to leave your country?! He said he doesn't want to live in America though because we are all about the individual person and not the collective, like to take care of one another. He said that Americans don't like black people and I said 'but we have one as our President. America is changing.' He looked thoughtful and finally said, 'this is true.'

Our other bunk mate was a strapping young Russian man of just 20, but he was wearing more gold than Midas, and was carrying a Gucci travel bag and wearing an Armani t-shirt and Dolce & Gabana jeans (he proudly showed me the label). I asked what kind of work he did and he said oil. Michael translated that he works for a Houston firm and he does drilling. Oil brings in big money for Russians and they like to display their wealth prominently.

I put my things in the hotel room and ate breakfast, and then set off to explore the city. The white Kremlin is the city's main attraction, but first I found a gorgeous mosque built in 1723. I saw all the women entering were wearing head scarves so I motioned to my head like 'it is necessary?' she said yes and pointed inside and said 'skolko', which means roughly 'how much' or 'to buy'. I try to be very conscious and respectful of other customs and cultures, so I put my jacket over my head, went in and bought a head scarf and then went back outside to put the head scarf on. I hope I am leaving a good impression of Americans here in Mother Russia.

After visiting this mosque and taking some beautiful pictures, I wandered in the direction of the train station to exchange my 3rd class ticket for 2nd class. A woman at the tourist info office wrote out in Russian for me exactly what I needed and I showed it to an official-looking woman at the station. I explained that I needed a 'bank-o-mat' first, as the train stations do not take credit cards. This wonderful woman walked me across cobblestones in her stilettos, to the station next door with the ATM, waited for me to withdraw money, walked me two buildings further away, stood in line with me, and told the cashier what I needed. She even waited until I had the ticket in my hand and checked it before bidding me goodbye. I said 'spa-see-ba bol-shoy bol-shoy', which means 'thank you very, very much and typed into my translator, 'you are a very kind person'. She said 'puh-zhal-usta', which means 'you're welcome', 'not at all' and 'please'- all in one word! lol

I continued to wander and came across an automotive flea market. I took some pictures and indicated I would like to buy an air freshener. It seemed like too much money so I bartered but she said 'niet'. I pointed to the lesser amount I had written and said 'souvenir' trying to explain I didn't want to pay much because it was just a souvenir. Without saying anything more, she took it down and handed it to me. I pointed to my lesser amount and she said 'niet' and pressed it into my hand and said 'souvenir'. She just gave it to me and would not accept any money. Russia is full of wonderful people.

Then there are the not so great ones. To visit the white Kremlin/mosque women must have all their skin covered and everyone must have their shoes covered. Since I was daring a skort and sleeveless top this necessitated having a Muslim attendant wrap cloth around my waist and shoulders, and everyone had to wear paper hospital booties (which of course we had to pay for).

Unfortunately, I got the male attendant and as he was wrapping my shoulders he grazed my chest. It ran through my mind this might have been on purpose, but I wanted to give him the benefit of the doubt. But the second time when he more like pressed his hand into my breast I knew it was no accident. If I had have been fluent in Russian I would have told him is it not a sin for a Muslim man to touch the breast of a woman who is not his wife, and not even a Muslim?! I would have told him he should have his hand cut off. But since I can't speak Russian, I just walked away feeling slightly violated. I surely hope Muslim women do not have to put up with that kind of treatment.

As I was taking the train to Irkutsk that night and would be on it for 3 days, I went the grocery store (called 'magazine' here) and stocked up. I will spare you the details of trying to find what I was looking for, but will relate another 'this is Russia' story. When I went to check out it was half an hour to closing time. There were literally 12 people in line and 3 store employees, including the apparent manager, were just standing at the only open check stand. Two guys came up to the line and they only had one beer each. When the employees waived the guys forward I thought they were going to open the other cash register for people with only a few items. But no, they just put them at the front of the line in front of all 12 other people who were waiting; "This is Russia".

The banya

So the banya. I read about banyas and what a part of life they are for Russians so I knew I had to try it. I went with the one in the guidebook as they recommended it highly. After probably 30 min of charades we agreed to steam bath, venik (exfoliation using oaks branches soaked in soapy water with eucalyptus oil) and 1/2 hour massage for neck and feet.

As I followed the woman into the steam room she disrobed and directed me up the stairs to some cedar benches. Then she opened an iron door in the 2 story brick furnace and began throwing in ladles of water. Within 60 seconds the temperature began to rise. And rise. And rise. After about 3 min it was becoming hard to breathe deeply. I indicated this to her and she told me to put my towel on the floor and put my head between my knees. (Heat rises so get lower was the idea I think.) This did help a little but I swear it was so hot it felt like my eyelashes were burning my cheeks when I closed my eyes tight. She said something like '80' and I think maybe she meant it was 80* C? I don't know what that is in F, but it was insanely intense!

After 10 min (which felt like 30) I couldn't take it anymore. She took me out to the main bath area and had me stand with my back to the tubs of water. She dipped a large bucket and starting at my feet, she poured ice cold water on my legs, back and then over my head, and it felt wonderful! She poured another bucket over my head and then took me back to the steam room. After a few more min in there I had had enough. I went out to the sitting room where the food, water and tea I had ordered were waiting. My heart was racing but she said that was normal. (Again, remember I am miming everything to communicate.)

Then it was time for venik. I layed down on my stomach and she started softly then got progressively harder. Then she had me turn over and put my hands over my breasts and she did the front. Other women were in the steam room and they were standing on the benches trying to get to the hottest spot in the room!

After this it was time for my massage. I like a good strong massage so I charaded to her 'strong massage! Grrr!' let me just give a word of warning to any of you that might be planning to get a massage from a Russian masseuse anytime soon. They take you seriously! That was Wed, today is Fri and I'm *almost* not sore anymore. It was miraculous for my feet but my neck and upper back are still sore.